Frequently Asked Questions

In short – Very!

The foundation of a greenhouse plays a critical role in supporting the entire greenhouse structure.  Unstable foundations can lead to uneven settling or shifting, putting additional pressure on other parts of the greenhouse.

All bases, no matter what type, MUST be level (not just flat). If your base is not level from corner to corner, with no fall, then your greenhouse will not sit square and will sit at a very slight angle. This will not only hinder the glazing process, but will dictate the sturdiness and lifespan of your greenhouse. We recommend either a paved base or a concrete base.  Greenhouses can be installed onto soil bases e.g lawns or allotments, but the soil must be freshly turned over and compacted.  The greenhouse is then installed using ‘base legs’, which are sunk into the soil and cemented in.  For further information, see our Blog Update regarding bases at Lets Talk Bases! – The Greenhouse Shop

We always like to compare it to having a huge fish tank.  If you had a 6ft fish tank that was 4ft long, and you put it on an uneven, unlevel base, you would be wary of it’s sturdiness.  If you then went ahead and filled that fish tank with water – the weight would create pressure points on the sections not supported by the uneven base.  Now, while this may be OK to a certain extent and for a certain amount of time, at some point the glass would crack and the whole structure would become unstable and at risk of collapse.

Similarly, if that base had a fall (slope) on it, the water level at the top of the fish tank would slope to one side – in the same way that on a greenhouse, the water would run to one side of the gutters (front or back), which is OK if it slopes to the back and that’s where your water butts are – but not as helpful if it collects at the back and your water butts are at the front.

Our reviews can be seen mainly on two platforms: either Facebook or Google.

If using Facebook, they can be seen on ‘The Greenhouse Shop’ page and also ‘Lancashire Greenhouse Services’ page (this is our ‘old’ name).

If using Google, they can be seen using this link here, though they are also linked on our Home Page.

They can also be seen on TrustPilot (The Greenhouse Shop) but we are quite new to this platform, so reviews are limited and on Ebay, where we also trade, mostly in spares and accessories.

Greenhouses are very vulnerable structures.  It’s important that you consider this when thinking about positioning your greenhouse.  No greenhouse is safe if it is in an exposed area – though some fare better than others.  We recommend the Elite Titan for any exposed/coastal areas, as the Titan bars and bar capping as standard on this model are incredibly thick and therefore not only add weight to the structure but strength too.  The Juliana range are also great for exposed areas as they are built with Scandinavian weather in mind and are very sturdy structures.  We do not recommend polycarbonate in exposed areas, though if an allotment where glass is not allowed, we recommend installing polycarbonate with a touch of silicone sealant, and then putting sealant onto the clips that hold the panes in place.

However, with all that in mind, we still recommend ensuring that your greenhouse is covered within your home insurance policy, just in case of any damage that occurs.

No.

Greenhouses are not designed or intended to be waterproof.

You can use silicone (clear) if you wish, but the best thing is to remember is that although it’s annoying when rain may get in during rainy conditions, it’s also helping ventilation and humidity through the hotter conditions.

If you wish to run your greenhouse through the winter, any gaps can either be sealed or you can use insulation wrap to cover over any gaps.

Condensation can also build up on the inside, especially in cooler weather. This is due to temperature differences between the inside and outside.

This is one of those ‘how long is a piece of string’ subjects!

The answer is very dependent on a number of factors.  How big the greenhouse is – what glass is being used – the DIY skill level of the person building it etc.  We won’t lie – it’s not as easy as it looks.  But the most important thing to remember with a greenhouse and as we always advise – the majority of errors are made in the first couple of hours and with the frame.  Unfortunately these errors don’t come to light until you try to glaze and the glass won’t fit the frame – if it is not square, the glazing will not fit.  We hear very regularly that the glazing is the wrong size, but it’s the frame that needs attention.

As a rule of thumb:

• Ensure you read the instruction manual thoroughly, before you begin.  Spend a couple of evenings going through it to ensure you are familiar with the stages.
• Take your time getting the base and frame right.  Ensure at every move that the greenhouse is level and square.
• Do not attempt to glaze during any windy conditions.  Carrying what can be 4ft long panes of glass in the wind is not ideal and certainly not recommended.
• Try to get help from a second person – if only to observe or hand you tools – it will also keep you safe while glazing the roof and ensure you have a second eye on the installation.
• Invest in some ‘glass suckers’ to aide you carrying and positioning glass into the frame.
• Ensure you wear gloves while glazing.
• Do not over-tighten the nuts and bolts.  Over-tightening them will make them thread.

We offer installation services for customers who would prefer the greenhouse to be built for them.  Please contact us for details.

Positioning your greenhouse against a wall or fence is technically feasible by glazing the side or end closest to the barrier first and then sliding/moving the structure into position. However, there are considerations to bear in mind.

A key factor to keep in mind is accessibility. Greenhouse glass is installed from the outside, so if your greenhouse is too close to a wall or fence, replacing broken panes or making adjustments will be extremely difficult, if not impossible.  And as the greenhouse will be fully glazed, you would not be able to move the greenhouse back out unless you completely deglaze it again. We recommend a maintenance gap of at least 18″ between the greenhouse and any adjacent wall or fence. This space allows you to access the exterior for cleaning, repairing glazing, or performing other essential maintenance tasks without needing to disassemble or move the entire structure.

Additionally, having a gap promotes proper airflow around the greenhouse, which is beneficial for ventilation and helps prevent dampness or mold accumulation in the surrounding area. Lack of airflow can also lead to a buildup of debris, like leaves or dirt, which might obstruct drainage or affect the structural integrity over time.

By planning your greenhouse placement with future maintenance and airflow in mind, you can ensure the longevity of your greenhouse and avoid potential headaches down the road.

When your greenhouse is delivered, it will arrive flat-packed, typically in long, narrow boxes approximately 12-18″ wide, 6″ high, and as long as the greenhouse itself, depending on the size. The box is designed to withstand outdoor storage; however, it’s a good idea to remove the instruction booklet first, as it may not fare well in wet conditions. If you have indoor storage space, it’s best to keep the greenhouse components inside, raised on wooden slats, to ensure everything remains clean and dry.  Failing this, the components can be stored outside, though we recommend using a taurpaulin to cover it.

Accessories such as extra windows, bases, and staging will be packed separately. Smaller accessories such as auto openers etc can be stored inside but are in relatively small boxes.  Glass panels are delivered/packed differently, depending on the brand:

• Elite Greenhouses: Horticultural glass panes are delivered in small bundles, wrapped and secured in cardboard packaging. These should be stored indoors or under a tarpaulin, leaning securely against a wall.  Full sheet toughened safety glass is delivered loose (see notes below)
• Halls/Juliana Greenhouses: Glass is typically delivered in sturdy wooden crates, providing excellent protection.

The space required for storage varies depending on the greenhouse size and glass type. Toughened glass in whole sheets takes up more space than the smaller horticultural panes, but generally, about 6 feet of wall space should suffice.

The delivery drivers will usually take the greenhouse to a designated spot, provided the access is reasonable and the distance is not too far.  We recommend this being close to the site of installation, which will save you/installers time when installing as the components will be closeby already.

Important Note on Glass Handling:
Always wear gloves when handling glass, as even toughened glass requires care. The edges of toughened glass are particularly fragile and can shatter upon contact with concrete or other hard surfaces or even just uneven carrying which puts pressure on the corners. To prevent damage, never let the glass edges touch hard surfaces or concrete. Instead, stack the panes on wooden slats (floor and on the back) for stability and protection.  Again, the delivery drivers will arrange and stack these for you, so you should not need to move them.

If you have placed your order and then decide that you would like to add accessories to it, it’s usually no problem at all.  Simply give us a call on 01772 230170 or send us an email at hello@thegreenhouseshop.co.uk, and we’ll be happy to assist.

We work closely with a local builder ‘J. Jones & Co Builders’ who we recommend to customers in the Lancashire area and a few miles radius. For customers further afield, we advise that you contact a reputable builder/landscaper, who has experience of building bases for greenhouses.  Builders often build bases with a slight ‘fall’ to ensure water run-off.  This should not be the case for a greenhouse base, they must be level, with no ‘fall’.

That’s great!  Though as a bit of advice, please ensure that you a) ask for pictures of previous greenhouse builds and b) only ever agree to the job on a fixed cost – NEVER a day rate.  The person you approach should be able to tell you exactly how long the build will take, will have examples of previous work and give you a fixed cost for the installation.

For anyone inexperienced, you would simply be paying someone to read instructions.  If in doubt, get in touch and we can advise.  Alternatively, see our Blog Update regarding Installation Pitfalls:  Greenhouse Installation Pitfalls – The Greenhouse Shop

Cantilevers add strength to greenhouse or lean-to frameworks by providing additional support and rigidity. The extended structure of the cantilever distributes the weight and pressure more evenly across the framework, which can be useful in areas with high wind or snow loads.  Additional cantilevers can be purchased for your greenhouse, and are used as eave or ridge bracing. Please contact us if you wish to order multiple items, as we can ship them in one package, saving money on shipping costs.  Similarly, if you wish to add them to your greenhouse order, please contact us and we can add them on without charging shipping as they will be delivered with your greenhouse.

Elite cantilevers

Hybrid panels are available on most Elite greenhouses and are aluminium sheets which can be powder coated to match your greenhouse and can be fitted along the bottom of your greenhouse.

The sheets are virtually unbreakable on impact from balls, stones, strimmers etc.   Another advantage of hybrid panels is their ability to hide the floor level of the greenhouse. This means that grow bags, pots, planters, and tools can be neatly stored out of sight, creating a more organised and visually appealing interior.

Kensington 6 in Olive with Hybrid Panels

Bar Capping provides a stronger hold for the glazing and adds a decorative finish to any greenhouse. The rubber fin also adds a better water seal between the frame and glass. Capping is used in addition to wire clips, so in effect, will add double protection which is ideal in more exposed areas.

The capping is simply screwed into position using colour coded screws, which do not leave any unsightly silver screw heads on show. Bar Capping is not recommended on overlapping glass.

Elite Bar Capping – Black

If you have pets, young children or live in an urban area, we would advise you to upgrade to toughened safety glass.  In the event of a breakage, the glass ‘pops’, breaking into small cubes of glass, whereas horticultural glass breaks into long shards of glass.   Toughened glass is also used as full length sheets, giving a neater finish with no overlapping glass, and therefore no moss or algae.  For any further information regarding the differences, see our Blog Update here:  What is the Difference Between Greenhouse Glass?

We work on and install all types of domestic greenhouses, from the smallest lean-to structures to the largest domestic greenhouse on the market.  For any commercial glasshouse work, please see our sister company:

http://www.commercialglasshousecontracts.co.uk

Yes, is the short answer.  However, there are a lot of factors to consider.  Our price would vary depending on your location, the size, make and model of the greenhouse and of course, where it is being transported to.  Even just relocating a greenhouse across a garden takes time and requires the greenhouse to be de-glazed, dismantled, moved, rebuilt and reglazed.  We have relocated greenhouses between 4ft distance to hundreds of miles!  If in doubt, get in touch and we can advise and provide a quotation.

In the UK, you won’t usually need planning permission for a new greenhouse if it’s for domestic use, takes up less than half your garden, and stays within the allowed height limits.  In many cases, greenhouses are classed as ‘permitted development’, meaning you won’t need planning permission.

However, if you’re concerned, we recommend contacting your local authority to check.

It’s usually the small details that offer the best convenience . Practical additions like staging, shelving and louvres can transform how you use your greenhouse, whereas items such as automatic openers are a brilliant way of offering a helping hand.

Here are some of our top recommendations:

– Automatic ventilation.  These are worth their weight in gold.  They will open and close your roof/louvre vents for you, saving the 6am/9pm dashes to the garden to open and close windows.  They will fluctuate during the day, depending on the temperature.  Of any accessory, these are our top recommendation for any greenhouse.

– Grow Hooks.  These fit into Elite greenhouses and offer support for growing tomatoes/cucumbers or anything that grows vertically.  We also use them to hang solar lights around the ridge of the greenhouse 🙂

– Plant Spirals.  These work in the same way as the grow hooks, but they hang from the roof to the ground and the plants grow up them.  Very tidy, very classy and look the part.

– Cresting & Finials.  These are two-fold.  They change the aesthetic look of the greenhouse, but also offer a deterrent to birds from landing on the ridge of the greenhouse and making a mess on the glass.

– Shading Blinds.  Much more convenient than shading netting as they can be lowered and raised as needed.  At 610mm wide, they fit most standard sized greenhouses.  For wider glass, we also offer the Juliana blinds, which are 700mm wide.

– Greenhouse Bin Seat.  A convenient storage for either compost or rubbish.  It’s also ideal for collecting garden waste such as cuttings and leaves.  The foam-topped lid doubles as a comfortable seat – perfect for tasks like sowing seeds or tending plants.  Not only that, but the lid can be removed and used as a padded kneeler for added comfort while working around the garden.

Here at The Greenhouse Shop, we focus exclusively on greenhouses and related products. This means we have in-depth knowledge, and can provide expert advice tailored to customers’ gardening goals, preferences and spaces.

As a friendly, family-run business with almost 30 years of experience in the greenhouse and glasshouse industry, we are committed to delivering a personalised experience that sets us apart.  Our comprehensive services include expert advice, customised quotations, and full support for supply, delivery, and installation – making us your trusted partner for all your greenhouse needs.  All orders placed before 17:00 are processed the same day.

We pride ourselves on our personal touch. When you reach out to us, you won’t be dealing with call centres, or navigating through automated menus. Instead, you’ll speak directly to a dedicated contact who will be with you throughout the entire process. For customers who prefer a more traditional approach, we provide personalised quotations via email or on paper, so there’s no need to navigate through a website if that’s not your preference.

Reputation matters. The Greenhouse Shop has a history of glowing customer testimonials and high satisfaction ratings.

Yes, greenhouses absolutely can survive winter, provided they’re properly maintained and prepared for the conditions. Here’s what you need to know:

Structure & Strength:
Most quality greenhouses are designed to withstand typical winter weather in the UK, including frost, snow, and wind.  However, to help them cope, check all bolts and glazing clips are tight, replace any cracked panes or panels to stop wind getting in and if in an exposed location, anchor your greenhouse securely to a solid base.  See our blog post regarding bases here

Snow & Ice:
Snow can add heavy weight to the roof.  Brush off accumulated snow to prevent stress on the frame or glass.  Avoid hot water for ice removal, it can crack glass from thermal shock.

Temperature & Plant Protection:
Greenhouses help buffer plants from frost, but they still get cold inside.  Use bubble insulation to line the interior.  Consider a small greenhouse heater or frost thermostat to keep temperatures stable.  Group tender plants together and cover with horticultural fleece on the coldest nights.

Ventilation & Condensation:
Even in winter, you need airflow.  Open vents occasionally on milder days to reduce damp and mould.  An automatic vent opener can help manage this.

Maintenance Tips:
Clear gutters and drains of leaves.  Check doors, vents, and hinges for smooth movement.  Inspect seals to ensure they’re watertight.

A well-built and well-maintained greenhouse will easily survive winter and actually become one of your most valuable tools, protecting plants, extending your growing season, and giving you a head start for spring.

Yes greenhouses can definitely get too hot, especially in summer months or during sunny spells (even in spring or autumn).

Greenhouses trap sunlight to create warmth, but on bright days, the temperature inside can easily rise to 30–40°C (or higher), which is far above what most plants can tolerate.  Excessive heat can cause wilting or scorched leaves, reduced flowering and fruiting, soil drying out too quickly, and heat stress – which can actually stop plants from growing.

So, how can you keep temperatures at a reasonable level?

Firstly, utilise all ventilation.  It’s important to open roof vents, side vents, and doors regularly to release heat.  We highly recommend automatic vent openers so airflow adjusts with the temperature.

You can also install shading.  This can be done either by greenhouse shading paint, or use shade netting or blinds to block harsh sunlight.  See our range of shading here.  We recommend the Halls shading blinds, while not necessarily cheap, they are easily retractable and can be moved around the greenhouse, whereas shade netting is difficult to move around once fitted.

Damp down the floor or paths on hot days as evaporation helps cool the air.  Keep plants well-watered, but avoid waterlogging.  Use a small fan to keep air moving evenly throughout the space and prevent hot spots.  Water early in the morning or late evening to reduce evaporation losses.

Personally, we also like planned planting.  We make sure that the side of our greenhouse that gets most sun has tall growing plants on the outside – things like green beans, mangetout and the like.  As these grow tall through the summer, they offer natural shading, while still loving the outside full sun.

Most plants thrive at between 18–26°C.  Above 30°C can stress or damage many species.  However, there are exceptions to this rule for heat-loving plants.

Greenhouses can overheat – but with good ventilation, shading, and watering habits, you can keep the temperature ideal for healthy, thriving plants.

Yes, you can install a greenhouse directly onto soil, many gardeners prefer this setup.  However, there are several important factors to ensure the structure remains stable, durable and practical.  Greenhouses must be securely anchored, especially in windy locations, and this typically means fixing or cementing the base legs into the ground, as simply placing the frame on soil won’t provide sufficient stability.  The area must also be perfectly level to avoid stress on the frame or potential glass breakage, and good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging during wet weather.

In addition, a solid support, such as concrete flags, should be positioned beneath the door cill to ensure the door(s) run smoothly and correctly within their track.  Elite Greenhouses sell Soft Soil Supports for this purpose, which can be ordered with the greenhouse.