Frequently Asked Questions

In short – Very!

The foundation of a greenhouse plays a critical role in supporting the entire greenhouse structure.  Unstable foundations can lead to uneven settling or shifting, putting additional pressure on other parts of the greenhouse.

All bases, no matter what type, MUST be level (not just flat). If your base is not level from corner to corner, with no fall, then your greenhouse will not sit square and will sit at a very slight angle. This will not only hinder the glazing process, but will dictate the sturdiness and lifespan of your greenhouse. We recommend either a paved base or a concrete base.  Greenhouses can be installed onto soil bases e.g lawns or allotments, but the soil must be freshly turned over and compacted.  The greenhouse is then installed using ‘base legs’, which are sunk into the soil and cemented in.  For further information, see our Blog Update regarding bases at Lets Talk Bases! – The Greenhouse Shop

We always like to compare it to having a huge fish tank.  If you had a 6ft fish tank that was 4ft long, and you put it on an uneven, unlevel base, you would be wary of it’s sturdiness.  If you then went ahead and filled that fish tank with water – the weight would create pressure points on the sections not supported by the uneven base.  Now, while this may be OK to a certain extent and for a certain amount of time, at some point the glass would crack and the whole structure would become unstable and at risk of collapse.

Similarly, if that base had a fall (slope) on it, the water level at the top of the fish tank would slope to one side – in the same way that on a greenhouse, the water would run to one side of the gutters (front or back), which is OK if it slopes to the back and that’s where your water butts are – but not as helpful if it collects at the back and your water butts are at the front.

Greenhouses are very vulnerable structures.  It’s important that you consider this when thinking about positioning your greenhouse.  No greenhouse is safe if it is in an exposed area – though some fare better than others.  We recommend the Elite Titan for any exposed/coastal areas, as the Titan bars and bar capping as standard on this model are incredibly thick and therefore not only add weight to the structure but strength too.  The Juliana range are also great for exposed areas as they are built with Scandinavian weather in mind and are very sturdy structures.  We do not recommend polycarbonate in exposed areas, though if an allotment where glass is not allowed, we recommend installing polycarbonate with a touch of silicone sealant, and then putting sealant onto the clips that hold the panes in place.

However, with all that in mind, we still recommend ensuring that your greenhouse is covered within your home insurance policy, just in case of any damage that occurs.

No.

Greenhouses are not designed or intended to be waterproof.

You can use silicone (clear) if you wish, but the best thing is to remember is that although it’s annoying when rain may get in during rainy conditions, it’s also helping ventilation and humidity through the hotter conditions.

If you wish to run your greenhouse through the winter, any gaps can either be sealed or you can use insulation wrap to cover over any gaps.

Condensation can also build up on the inside, especially in cooler weather. This is due to temperature differences between the inside and outside.

This is one of those ‘how long is a piece of string’ subjects!

The answer is very dependent on a number of factors.  How big the greenhouse is – what glass is being used – the DIY skill level of the person building it etc.  We won’t lie – it’s not as easy as it looks.  But the most important thing to remember with a greenhouse and as we always advise – the majority of errors are made in the first couple of hours and with the frame.  Unfortunately these errors don’t come to light until you try to glaze and the glass won’t fit the frame – if it is not square, the glazing will not fit.  We hear very regularly that the glazing is the wrong size, but it’s the frame that needs attention.

As a rule of thumb:

• Ensure you read the instruction manual thoroughly, before you begin.  Spend a couple of evenings going through it to ensure you are familiar with the stages.
• Take your time getting the base and frame right.  Ensure at every move that the greenhouse is level and square.
• Do not attempt to glaze during any windy conditions.  Carrying what can be 4ft long panes of glass in the wind is not ideal and certainly not recommended.
• Try to get help from a second person – if only to observe or hand you tools – it will also keep you safe while glazing the roof and ensure you have a second eye on the installation.
• Invest in some ‘glass suckers’ to aide you carrying and positioning glass into the frame.
• Ensure you wear gloves while glazing.
• Do not over-tighten the nuts and bolts.  Over-tightening them will make them thread.

We offer installation services for customers who would prefer the greenhouse to be built for them.  Please contact us for details.

Positioning your greenhouse against a wall or fence is technically feasible by glazing the side or end closest to the barrier first and then sliding/moving the structure into position. However, there are considerations to bear in mind.

A key factor to keep in mind is accessibility. Greenhouse glass is installed from the outside, so if your greenhouse is too close to a wall or fence, replacing broken panes or making adjustments will be extremely difficult, if not impossible.  And as the greenhouse will be fully glazed, you would not be able to move the greenhouse back out unless you completely deglaze it again. We recommend a maintenance gap of at least 18″ between the greenhouse and any adjacent wall or fence. This space allows you to access the exterior for cleaning, repairing glazing, or performing other essential maintenance tasks without needing to disassemble or move the entire structure.

Additionally, having a gap promotes proper airflow around the greenhouse, which is beneficial for ventilation and helps prevent dampness or mold accumulation in the surrounding area. Lack of airflow can also lead to a buildup of debris, like leaves or dirt, which might obstruct drainage or affect the structural integrity over time.

By planning your greenhouse placement with future maintenance and airflow in mind, you can ensure the longevity of your greenhouse and avoid potential headaches down the road.

When your greenhouse is delivered, it will arrive flat-packed, typically in long, narrow boxes approximately 12-18″ wide, 6″ high, and as long as the greenhouse itself, depending on the size. The box is designed to withstand outdoor storage; however, it’s a good idea to remove the instruction booklet first, as it may not fare well in wet conditions. If you have indoor storage space, it’s best to keep the greenhouse components inside, raised on wooden slats, to ensure everything remains clean and dry.  Failing this, the components can be stored outside, though we recommend using a taurpaulin to cover it.

Accessories such as extra windows, bases, and staging will be packed separately. Smaller accessories such as auto openers etc can be stored inside but are in relatively small boxes.  Glass panels are delivered/packed differently, depending on the brand:

• Elite Greenhouses: Horticultural glass panes are delivered in small bundles, wrapped and secured in cardboard packaging. These should be stored indoors or under a tarpaulin, leaning securely against a wall.  Full sheet toughened safety glass is delivered loose (see notes below)
• Halls/Juliana Greenhouses: Glass is typically delivered in sturdy wooden crates, providing excellent protection.

The space required for storage varies depending on the greenhouse size and glass type. Toughened glass in whole sheets takes up more space than the smaller horticultural panes, but generally, about 6 feet of wall space should suffice.

The delivery drivers will usually take the greenhouse to a designated spot, provided the access is reasonable and the distance is not too far.  We recommend this being close to the site of installation, which will save you/installers time when installing as the components will be closeby already.

Important Note on Glass Handling:
Always wear gloves when handling glass, as even toughened glass requires care. The edges of toughened glass are particularly fragile and can shatter upon contact with concrete or other hard surfaces or even just uneven carrying which puts pressure on the corners. To prevent damage, never let the glass edges touch hard surfaces or concrete. Instead, stack the panes on wooden slats (floor and on the back) for stability and protection.  Again, the delivery drivers will arrange and stack these for you, so you should not need to move them.

If you have placed your order and then decide that you would like to add accessories to it, it’s usually no problem at all.  Simply give us a call on 01772 230170 or send us an email at hello@thegreenhouseshop.co.uk, and we’ll be happy to assist.

We work closely with a local builder ‘J. Jones & Co Builders’ who we recommend to customers in the Lancashire area and a few miles radius. For customers further afield, we advise that you contact a reputable builder/landscaper, who has experience of building bases for greenhouses.  Builders often build bases with a slight ‘fall’ to ensure water run-off.  This should not be the case for a greenhouse base, they must be level, with no ‘fall’.

Absolutely. We are recommended installers for many companies, including Rhino Greenhouses (Greenhouses Direct), Juliana, Halls, Alton, Vitavia, Simplicity etc.  We are also specialised installers for Robinson’s Greenhouses, particularly their larger range of 35ft+

Simply email us or use the contact form and we will respond with a quotation. On acceptance, we then take a deposit to secure a mutually agreed date of installation – and that’s it!

The deposit is a booking fee, which secures the date that has been mutually agreed. This is assurance for both sides that the work will take place on the agreed date (though in exceptional circumstances, such as high winds/adverse weather, we may need to rearrange – but will always try to ensure the new date is close to the original date).

That’s great!  Though as a bit of advice, please ensure that you a) ask for pictures of previous greenhouse builds and b) only ever agree to the job on a fixed cost – NEVER a day rate.  The person you approach should be able to tell you exactly how long the build will take, will have examples of previous work and give you a fixed cost for the installation.

For anyone inexperienced, you would simply be paying someone to read instructions.  If in doubt, get in touch and we can advise.  Alternatively, see our Blog Update regarding Installation Pitfalls:  Greenhouse Installation Pitfalls – The Greenhouse Shop

Cantilevers add strength to greenhouse or lean-to frameworks by providing additional support and rigidity. The extended structure of the cantilever distributes the weight and pressure more evenly across the framework, which can be useful in areas with high wind or snow loads.  Additional cantilevers can be purchased for your greenhouse, and are used as eave or ridge bracing. Please contact us if you wish to order multiple items, as we can ship them in one package, saving money on shipping costs.  Similarly, if you wish to add them to your greenhouse order, please contact us and we can add them on without charging shipping as they will be delivered with your greenhouse.

Hybrid panels are available on most Elite greenhouses and are aluminium sheets which can be powder coated to match your greenhouse and can be fitted along the bottom of your greenhouse.

The sheets are virtually unbreakable on impact from balls, stones, strimmers etc.   Another advantage of hybrid panels is their ability to hide the floor level of the greenhouse. This means that grow bags, pots, planters, and tools can be neatly stored out of sight, creating a more organised and visually appealing interior.

Bar Capping provides a stronger hold for the glazing and adds a decorative finish to any greenhouse. The rubber fin also adds a better water seal between the frame and glass. Capping is used in addition to wire clips, so in effect, will add double protection which is ideal in more exposed areas.

The capping is simply screwed into position using colour coded screws, which do not leave any unsightly silver screw heads on show. Bar Capping is not recommended on overlapping glass.

If you have pets, young children or live in an urban area, we would advise you to upgrade to toughened safety glass.  In the event of a breakage, the glass ‘pops’, breaking into small cubes of glass, whereas horticultural glass breaks into long shards of glass.   Toughened glass is also used as full length sheets, giving a neater finish with no overlapping glass, and therefore no moss or algae.  For any further information regarding the differences, see our Blog Update here:  What is the Difference Between Greenhouse Glass?

We work on and install all types of domestic greenhouses, from the smallest lean-to structures to the largest domestic greenhouse on the market.  For any commercial glasshouse work, please see our sister company:

http://www.commercialglasshousecontracts.co.uk

Our greenhouse sales prices are on the website, along with accessories and additional items.  Our installation, relocation, refurbishment and repair prices are available on request – prices vary due to location/size/make/models of greenhouse.  Please contact us for further information.

Yes, is the short answer.  However, there are a lot of factors to consider.  Our price would vary depending on your location, the size, make and model of the greenhouse and of course, where it is being transported to.  Even just relocating a greenhouse across a garden takes time and requires the greenhouse to be de-glazed, dismantled, moved, rebuilt and reglazed.  We have relocated greenhouses between 4ft distance to hundreds of miles!  If in doubt, get in touch and we can advise and provide a quotation.